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For my last February break in Belgrade,
I decided to hop in the car and head south. What starrted out as a simple
visit to Lake Ohrid in Macedonia turned into an epic road trip though some
of the most battle-scarred territory in Europe. Over the course of six
days I visited six countries, most of which had been part of the former
Yugoslavia and still bore the wounds of war in the 1990s.
Driving through these areas alone in a
vehicle with Belgrade license plates can be a dicey matter, and over the
days the phrase "fools rush in where angels fear to tread" kept resounding
in my mind. But, as I managed to find places to stay that had gated parking
and did most of my city exploring by foot, all turned out well. I was the
only American I saw during the entire journey (I was most often mistaken
for an Italian), and I was treated to the hospitality of people that have
been missing out on their share of tourists for a long time.
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