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roaming the world and enjoying the scenery...

Greetings from Rimini

Unfortunately, we aren’t the ones doing the greetings from Rimini. We got a call last night from the huge family reunion taking place at our cabin, and enjoyed hearing how much fun the rest of the family was having at our house!

(A quick recap of the summer’s trials and tribulations: we got back from India, spent a week with family in DC, and then came out to Minnesota. Our plan was to hang out here for 2 weeks, and then spend most of July at our cabin in Rimini, Montana. Family from all over the US - brother and family from DC, mother from WV, sister and family from WY, sister and family from Missoula, MT, and, for the first time ever, father from Billings, MT - all made plans to converge on the little town outside Helena for a grand reunion. But two days before I was to drive out and get things ready, I blew out my knee playing beach volleyball. The grim diagnosis was a ripped ACL and torn meniscus, requiring immediate surgery and (at least) 6 week recovery time before any travel was possible. There went our plans)

But everyone else decided to carry on with the plan, so we got a fun phone call from them last night - great cell phone coverage! Sounds like everyone is having a good time: dad is acting goofy, Rob brought Obama pins for all the kids (except Tyrel, who still wants Mitt Romney!), Karla has a pink Obama shirt, Yiayia is unfortunately not feeling well, and Shari’s got her hands full with two feisty girls.

We wish we were there, and we hope everyone has a super time with lots of swimming, hiking, and campfiring. There have been many promises of pictures, so we are certainly excited about seeing them.

Meanwhile, our kids got to go to the MN zoo today, while I got to go to physical therapy. Hardly seems fair…

Risk

Before all the hoopla happened with my knee, we’d been hitting some garage sales for summer stuff. A few years ago, our kids and the Toomer kids had a ton of fun playing Risk on the porch of our cabin. So when Susan found a Risk game at a garage sale, she was all ready to get it.

At $6, it was pretty expensive for a garage sale, but because it was still wrapped in the original unopened plastic, we figured that at least we’d be sure to have all the pieces. We offered $5 for it, and the deal was made.

We took it home, and after I hurt my knee, we decided to try it out. Breck was especially excited, and once we got all the pieces extricated from the bubble wrap they were in (all the little army pieces are actually metal instead of plastic), we got right down to playing. Lots of fun.

The other night, dinging around on the internet, I looked up “risk 40 anniversary” and saw that they were for sale at amazon.com. What a bargain!

Risk 40th anniversary edition for sale on amazon.com

Inside the knee

Dave's wrecked ACLWant to get up close and personal with the inside of my knee? We got some pictures from the doctor when he did the surgery, and I’ve posted a little play by play description of what is going on. Nothing too graphically gross, actually pretty cool if you’ve ever wondered what the viewpoint to an arthroscopic surgery looks like.

There is also a picture of the kids helping to make me feel better, if that is more to your taset.

Enjoy!

Your father’s mustache

That is what my mom would say when we kids did something that she plain did not understand. I suppose it implied that whatever behavior we were exhibiting came from “the other side of the gene pool” (and not from those brave Spartans!).

As I work through my recovery from knee surgery, I am in the middle of one of those “Your father’s mustache” periods with my wife and the kids. There is quite a good backstory to all this, so just bear with me. As you’ll soon see, I have plenty of time on my hands…

So the set up: Before I got the surgery done, I had to have the issue diagnosed, right? Waiting in the doctor’s office, I read a Sports Illustrated article about baseball in Alaska. Of course, the thing that catches my eye isn’t the story per se, but the idea that they actually sing a different song for the 7th inning stretch - one that sounds kinda interesting. I grew into baseball with Harry Caray at Wrigley, so the idea of anything other than “Take me out to the ballgame” sounded sacrilegious at first, but I was intrigued.

Fast forward to this week, after surgery on Monday. The general therapy for me this week has been: Sit, with your leg elevated, and ice the knee for most of the day. Do two sessions of stretching and muscle building exercises during the day, and try to walk around the house three times putting a little weight on the bad leg. Then go back to sitting with your leg elevated, and put more ice on the knee. All day long. A perfect setup for wasting time on the internet, which we luckily can get through the air here.

“Wasting time on the internet?” Whoa. I wonder if I can track down that song they mentioned in the article. Oh yes, I could and I did. Now, this was apparently quite an underground hit for the band at the time - the mid 80s - which also happened to be my time for music, but I’d never heard it. The band is called the Beat Farmers, and the song is called Happy Boy. Here are the lyrics:

I was walkin’ down the street on a sunny day
hubba hubba hubba hubba hubba
Feelin’ in my bones that I’ll have my way
hubba hubba hubba hubba hubba

Chorus:
Well, I’m a happy boy (happy boy)
Well, I’m a happy boy (happy boy)
Oh, ain’t it good when things are goin’ your way? Hey hey

My little dog Spot got hit by a car
hubba hubba hubba hubba hubba
Put his guts in a box and put him in a drawer
hubba hubba hubba hubba hubba

(chorus)
(kazoo solo)
(beer gargle solo)

I forgot all about it for a month and a half
hubba hubba hubba hubba hubba
I looked in the drawer and started to laugh
hubba hubba hubba hubba hubba

(chorus)

With a chorus like that, and a kazoo solo, AND a beer gargle solo, how can you go wrong in only a minute and 22 seconds?! We tracked down the song itself (which you can watch and listen to via the youtube video below), and now I’ve got the kids wandering around the house singing about putting little dog guts in a drawer and saying “hubba hubba hubba hubba hubba” all over the place.

And poor Susan is just rolling her eyes at the silliness of us all. Apparently her mom didn’t have a phrase like “Your father’s moustache” to express her feelings (all she had was a good “tsk!”), but I am ascribing to Susan the right to say it, even though I don’t have a mustache. As an official Stutz, she should be able to use that saying. Especially for teaching the kids a song about squishing a poor pet dog. Hubba hubba hubba hubba hubba.

PLAY BALL!!

Kneetly done

Well, the incisions have been incised, the grafts grafted, and the sutures sutured. All seemed to go well with the surgery on Monday, and I have spent the last 2 days encased in a metal superstructure designed to protect the knee and keep it from bending.

Seeings how it is my birthday, I have also had a pleasant stream of phone calls during the day. As the pain is getting to be quite noticeable, such calls are always a great interruption in a schedule replete with not much to do. Per Susan’s orders, today is another do-nothing day, but tomorrow will mark the first physical therapy meeting. Knowing how the joint feels just sitting here, I am a little apprehensive about getting out and working it, but that is the obvious point of PT.

But on a happier note, I got an email from my college buddy Samer confirming that he is getting married this July. While I will obviously not be able to make the ceremony, it gives me great pleasure to enjoy his special day (vicariously) with him.

Knee knews

So here’s the latest, and it ain’t pretty.

We got called in today to go over the results of the MRI, and right away knew that summer plans were a-changin. Everything is off for us this summer, because it looks like my surgery and recovery are going to be a bit more complicated than earlier thought. In addition to a torn meniscus - a “bucket handle” tear of the cartilage which apparently has flipped under the bone and is blocking my knee from straightening out - I also destroyed my ACL - the main ligament through the middle of the knee.

The good news (to frame at least something in a positive light) is that because of the severity and type of tear, the surgeon wants to get in there and fix everything up as soon as possible, so I am scheduled to go under the knife on Monday morning. It is an outpatient procedure, so I should be back at the folks’ house that same afternoon. Since they are taking off to Russia for 2 weeks the same day, we’ll be able to watch their house (and new puppy!) while I’m recovering.

As far as further plans for the summer, we talked with the doctor about recovery time. Since the surgery, recovery, and physical therapy resulting from the ligament injury is quite a bit more involved than that of just the torn cartilage, it basically grounds us from further summer travels. So we’ll not be making it out to our beautiful cabin after all, and the scheduled reunion taking place up there will go on without us.

Not really the way we planned on spending the summer - but we are certainly counting our blessings that things are as ‘fixable’ as they are. There are plenty of other incidents and situations that could have been so much more life-shattering than this. It throws a wrench into our summer plans, but we’ll make the best of them!

Didn’t kneed that!

Oops - just as things were falling into place for all the summer travels, we’re having a major shake up in plans. I went with my sister-in-law to play volleyball last night, and the sand just didn’t agree with my knee. I heard a pop, felt a ‘catch,’ and now all of a sudden my left leg looks wildly out of sorts; all bent up and bent out. I can’t walk on it, and am very glad Grandma had a pair of crutches in the house.

Susan took me over to a doctor today, and as I suspected when it first happened, it looks like I’ll need surgery - thankfully just a “scope” and not a “cut.” MRI scheduled for tomorrow, operation next Tuesday. Ugh. Obviously, the whole summer schedule predicated on my leaving tomorrow is scrapped, as well as my quiet “guy time” driving out to Montana!

We’re going to try to keep most of the itinerary intact: Suz and the kids will still fly out; I’ll just be joining them later than planned (getting there after instead of before them). The real trick will be, of course, them managing at the cabin without all the stuff I was supposed to drive out (camping gear, for example).

Never a dull moment for the Stutz family!! Oh well - what’s that old saying? “Want to make the gods laugh? Tell them your plans!”

Walkin’ the Mall

Alea and Breck in front of the CapitolWell, we made it to DC, and are having a great visit with Uncle Rob, Aunt Blanche, Boyd, and Sam. They have been so gracious in letting us use their apartment, which is conveniently located right near a Metro stop, so we’ve been able to zip downtown on a couple of occasions to see a few of the sights. They are in the process of moving to the new-to-them house they just bought, so everything worked out perfectly.

Yesterday we spent the whole day with YiaYia at the Air and Space Museum (and the only one asking “Are we done yet?” was Susan!! We eventually let her go to the National Gallery of Art across the way to get her daily dose of culture!). This morning, we are heading to start at the Lincoln Memorial and walk the Mall to the Museum of Natural History.

Even though we are in the midst of a DC heatwave, we are feeling right at home. The jetlag has been negligible, and we are so excited to be getting our summer off to such a great start. More info as we travel around, but suffice to say at this point - we’re back in the USA, we’re healthy, and we’re happy!!

Last day of school!

Alea and Breck on the last day of school

Here are the kids - all ready for their final classes before summer break! They have a half day today, and tomorrow Alea gets a birthday present: no school!

She got the first part of her ‘presents’ yesterday, as we welcomed the first big rainstorm of the season. The kids had just gone to bed when the lightning flashed and the thunder roared; we all ran to the windows to watch the sheets of rain pour down. How exciting!!

In any case, you can also visit the School Pictures page to see all the first and last day pictures we’ve taken over the years. Have a great summer!!

Slip sliding away

Things you never consider before living in a place that has monsoons: after 8 months or so with no precipitation, the rains have a curious – though utterly predictable – effect on the roads here. That first little bit of moisture ‘brings up’ all the accumulated engine oil, axle grease, tire bits, and other assorted petroleum-based product debris that has accumulated on the asphalt. This creates a super slick skating rink on the surface over which all vehicles must pass.

There was the tiniest trace of a mist in the air this morning, and it made coming in to school a mess. Luckily our van driver is great and knew what was coming (and paid attention to the people on the side of the road waving at him to slow down), but coming over a hill we saw a dump truck that had slid completely around, a bus that skidded and shuddered from side to side as it was breaking, and several people walking motorcycles with freshly-broken side mirrors on them. Another teacher actually saw a motorcycle take a digger while going around a corner, but we just witnessed the aftermath.

There had hardly been enough precipitation to even qualify as ‘moisture,’ but the effects were certainly noticeable. I wonder what else will be in store as the weather patterns start to change. The news headlines this weekend were that the monsoon has hit Kerala (news story here), and Goa is starting to shut down as the rains approach. It won’t be too long now; the big question is whether it will start to pour here before we leave or not…

Breck meditating on the Kiara roof

Regardless of the rain’s plans, Breck intends on using every ounce of sunlight before we take off. He spent the afternoon soaking in the rays (while soaking in a tub) on the Kiara rooftop. What a fun way to enjoy the weather!

Fifth view of life in Bombay

Typical goods-hauling truck in Mumbai trafficThrough our first year here, we’ve posted a number of pages centered around things that we see in our daily life. As the school year is almost over, and we will be in the US for most of the break, this is the last page of pictures from India that we plan on uploading until August. We might have a post or 2 of wrap up from the year, but enjoy these last shots from this fascinating country.

In case you have missed any of the earlier pages, here are our imaginatively-named webpages in this particular genre:

Veg versus non-veg

Domino's Veg and Non-Veg stickersIndia is a vegetarian’s heaven. Besides all the fresh fruits and veggies that are available in the markets, at roadside stands, and in neighborhood carts, the idea of vegetarianism permeates the culture. Religiously, it makes sense. Since India welcomes all sorts of different faiths, including those that won’t eat beef (Hinduism), those that won’t eat pork (Islam and Judaism), those that don’t believe in killing any creatures at all (Jainism), and those that don’t prohibit meat but still kinda sorta recommend against eating dead animals (Buddhism), the easiest way to avoid any misunderstandings is to stick to a vegetarian path.

As such, all food that is packaged in any way is marked as either being ‘vegetarian’ or ‘non vegetarian’ with little green or red dots. Menus in restaurants (if the place isn’t billed as “Pure Veg” to begin with) always differentiate between vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes. Even McDonald’s has a completely separate Veg menu (including such favorites as the McVeggie, McAloo Tikka, Paneer Salsa Wrap, and Veg McCurry Pan).

Of course, this also means that meat dishes can be few and far between - as well as expensive. We bought 3 pork chops the other day (frozen, not at a restaurant) that cost 600 rupees: fifteen dollars!!! We have since found out that there are alternate places for meat shopping, but still! Our mainstay has become the ole chicken breast, but we’ll splurge every so often for some mutton (which is sometimes lamb and sometimes goat) and beef (which is really water buffalo). I try to talk the rest of the family into seafood as well, but there are few takers in that regard.

One of the craziest things is that the plain pepperoni pizza - nothing fancy at all - is usually the most expensive item on the menu at pizza places (Domino’s and Pizza Hut included, in addition to the home-grown stores). Oh, and as far as the non-veg McDonald’s menu? Still no beef there, no matter what you’re willing to pay: you’ll have to settle for chicken, as in the Chicken Maharaja Mac!!

Alea’s 5th grade exhibition

Singing the welcome songThis week was the fifth graders’ PYP exhibition, a culminating project incorporating all sorts of learning that took place over their elementary school years. The class focuses on a student selected topic for the last 8 weeks of the school year and then presents what they learned to parents, teachers, and peers. This year’s theme was “With Every Child’s Rights Come Responsibilities.” Because child rights are such a pertinent topic to everyone living in India, the students found that they had a unique opportunity to explore many different facets of the subject.

Alea's group

.

To keep things at a manageable level, the kids split up into 8 different groups: Abuse, Basic Needs, Education, Fun, Gender, Healthcare, Labor, and Protection. Alea chose Labor (or Labour as it was spelled here), and so her group’s presentation looked at the lives of children through the prism of them having to work. After the entire grade sang an introductory song, accompanying themselves with drums and guitars, they split up into separate rooms to spend time ‘teaching’ the parents and other visitors about their topics.

Breck wheeling the bricks arounThe main part of the presentation was a ‘newscast’ with Alea and another group member reading the latest news on child labor from several regions in India, followed by an “interview” with 2 ex-child laborers (also group members playing a role), and finishing with a puppet show detailing life as a child slave. After the movie, we were invited to explore the information that the kids had collected and detailed in poster form hanging around the room. There was also a labor simulation of work at a brick making factory, where Breck, and others,  saw how hard it was to load and haul a wheelbarrow across the room.

Of course, her group’s was the best out of all of them (!!), but the other rooms were all interesting and very well done. Breck was a great learner through the different presentations, and even got to participate in some of the games and activities. The highlight of the evening – outside of Alea’s group – was when he took part in the Healthcare game. He was competing against a teacher, and he had some tough questions to answer. We were very proud of his response to, “How do you help someone who is dehydrated?”. He said, “Drink lots of water and electrons” which was close enough to water and electrolytes for us.

But the real moment of parental pride came when he had to “Describe the symptoms of malnourishment.” He stood still for a moment, and then his face brightened and he gave his answer: “When someone is lying on the ground, with their eyes closed, and they’re not breathing!”

Does my son know the symptoms of acute malnourishment, or what?!!

Chicken Lollipops!

Chicken lollipops!One of my new favoritest foods here is lollipop chicken (or chicken lollipops, depending on which particular menu you are using). They’re just like a chicken wing, except that they have the bone with just a big blob of meat at the end. None of that pesky double boned wing stuff to get in the way of the goods! They are usually made without too much spice in them - you get that from dipping them in a sauce - so they are pretty safe for anyone.

Of course the name itself is great. I love the way these names get affixed to foods. Obviously someone thought it looked like candy on a stick, and that’s all she wrote. (Another interesting one was when we were eating in Aurangabad and tried Kentucky chicken, which was nothing more than fried chicken.)

Our vegetarian friends are not as excited with the name, however, and you can imagine how disappointed Alea and Breck were when we ordered dinner last night, I told them we were having lollipops for dinner, and then they found out the truth!!

Pictures from Kerala

Kathakali dancer in Fort Kochi, KeralaFinally got the Kerala trip webpages all finished up and posted. The last big trip of the year always seems to get rushed in at the end of everything. With all the stuff going on lately - the end of school and getting ready for summer - they kept getting put off…

But now they’re on - just in time for Susan’s birthday (happy birthday, honey!!).

Honestly, with all the tragedy going on right now in this part of the world - from cyclones in Burma to earthquakes in China to bombs in India - it just feels good to be able to write about a pleasant vacation and include some happy pictures. So enjoy, and take a load off for a few minutes!

A Mumbai poem

We had a Kiara roof coffeehouse evening last Saturday night called CAF-ASB (pronounced Café – S – B). People shared food and showed off their talents in the arts: poetry recitation, singing, music, painting, etc. It was a beautiful evening accented by flickering candles, providing the perfect setting for such an artsy get together.

One of our fellow teachers here, Russell Bell, is a former actor and stand-up comic from the LA area (his blog about life in India is here). He had written a piece of ‘performance poetry’ about Mumbai that he shared with us, and it was so well done that I asked him if I could post it here. While it is much more entertaining “live,” the words and images contained in it still give a good introduction to life here. Of course, if you’ve been to India, some of these will make more sense to you, but in any case, enjoy “Mumbai” by Russell Bell:

Rickshaw
sida
Right jaao
Vos

Mera nam
Kaise ho
Tik hai
Ha

Is it Namaste or Namaskar
Donnavad or Shukria
Did he say yes or did he say no?
(head wobble)

Shilpa Shetty
Shah Ruh Kahn
Amitabh, he’s the Don
Sanjay Dutt, he carried a gun
Aishwarya’s hot!

Where do you walk when the sidewalk’s full?
Which goes first, bus or bull?
I stepped in something, that’s not cool

Mmmm Mumbai

Haj Ali, dhobi Ghat,
Juhu beach, god it’s hot
The big brick buildings seen at Fort
Were put there by the Raj

Chor Bazaar, Harry’s Place
Colaba Hawkers in your face
The British built India Gate
But a Parsi built the Taj

Chapatti
Roti
Murg masala
nan

Lassi
pani
durawalla
chai

Durga had ten arms,
Krishna loved his curd,
Ganesh’s Dad cut off his head,
At least that’s what I heard

Horn please, honk okay
You can almost taste the air today?
If traffic stops, just drive on the other side.

Where can I go to walk my goat?
Will I ever be able to wear my coat?
Something crunchy just went down my throat

Mmmm Mumbai

Cricket,
Wicket,
Sixer,
Over,
Run

I saw another three-legged dog lying in the sun.

The city, it’s chaotic,
A collection of colors and sounds,
It’s a concert of Life
That can be heard from all around
The instruments, the people,
Are divided by language, caste, and faith,
But the music, it’s all written
In one city - one place

Mumbai

Morning clouds in Mumbai

Clouds over the Arabian SeaThe sun has been coming up earlier and earlier these days, as we move out of winter (or what passed as winter here) into summer. This morning, however, it actually seemed darker than it had in days past. Looking out the window, we figured out what it was - there were CLOUDS in the sky!!

Now, this might not seem like such a big deal, but there have basically been none since last September or October. Of course, I’m not counting clouds of vehicle exhaust, or clouds of smoke from burning garbage, or clouds of industrial pollution, or clouds of ravens feasting on refuse - I’m talking about fluffy white possibly-precipitation-loaded atmospheric phenomena. They mean the monsoons are on the way. While I’m not necessarily a huge fan of constant downpour and flooding streets, the rains are welcomed in the part of the world as a rejuvenating shot in the arm and much needed dust-settler.

And since we’ll be out of India for much of the rain time, I guess that makes the prospect easier to take. So stir up the cirrostratus and let the cumulus accumulate!

Raising kids internationally is interesting

ASB middle school girls' volleyball 2008I had a fascinating afternoon with some girls from school yesterday. We are hosting a middle school volleyball tournament this weekend, and part of the activity schedule was to go to a mall and go bowling. When the big bus showed up to take everyone, there wasn’t enough room for all the players, so I took a small jeep-like private vehicle. Five girls came with me, 4 from a visiting school and 1 from our school.

The conversations on the way down were eye-opening, to say the least. While not really eavesdropping, I was listening in from time to time, and was surprised by the conversations that took place. They started off with the typical “Where are you from?” questions, with the girls coming from the USA and Korea. Things started to turn when one of them continued, “But my friends tell me I’m not really from the United States. I consider myself more of a world citizen.” That led them in to the “Where have you lived?” portion of the conversation, which is a very normal course of events when these kids have spent their lives living out of their home countries.

They talked volleyball for a little while (since they were, after all here for a volleyball tournament!), but then moved right back into descriptions of places they’d been, people they knew in various schools around the world (and finding they had some acquaintances in Egypt in common!), and weird experiences while traveling (riding on trains, sitting on tops of buses, life in an Asian mega-city).

What I found mesmerizing, listening in from afar, was the complete lack of discussion or seeming interest in those things that one would expect middle school students to talk about: music, movies, TV shows, actors, gossip, etc. The one time they mentioned movies was in the context of, “I was watching this movie, and even though my Hindi isn’t really all that good I could understand a lot of it.”

I know that I shouldn’t assign too much importance to a single conversation that I heard, but as a dad of children who are going to be brought up in this way, I was entranced. Here are 11 to 14 year olds who have very different perspective of ‘shared culture.’ They don’t have a common set of entertainment (music and video) experiences, and so they have to build their social engagements around what they have in common: the world. What a different way to build a middle school experience – instead of giggling over the latest celebrity gossip and pop music craze, the girls were laughing about the crazy places they’d seen around the world! Makes me pretty excited to be raising a couple of kids in this environment…

And by the way - our ASB teams took 2nd and 3rd in the tournament! Pretty great for a program in its second year!!

ASB Swim Gala

Breck at the ASB Swim GalaAlea at the ASB Swim GalaAs the year winds down, nothing around the school seems to slow down. The weeks and weekends are full of sports, student awards, socials, speeches, and all sorts of other “S” worded events.

Let’s see, today is Wednesday. Today there is volleyball practice and Susan’s after school activity, Tuesday were schoolwide meetings and a speech by an ‘expert on expats,’ Monday was the middle school student achievement awards, Sunday was the farewell party for the elementary school principal, Saturday was volleyball practice, broken computer fixing day, a middle school dance, and the cinco de mayo party…

And Friday was the ASB Swim Gala. One of the benefits of attending a school in a hot climated area is the accessibility of a pool. We’ll use the little one at our building sometimes, and come to the bigger one at school as well. The kids get year round access to it, and swimming is part of the PE curriculum, so they are turning into true water babies. So in celebration of all the water centric activities at the school, Friday was dedicated (in the elementary school) to a swim gala, where the kids rotated among events such as relay races, slaloms, obstacle courses, and ring diving.

Alea and Breck were super participants (and were wiped out when they got home!). It was a lot of fun for the parents to attend, stand in the shade, and watch the kids show off all the great moves they’d learned.

Superfight!

Superfight!

This story is about 2 friends playing ball. But the ball becomes a bomb. One of the friends said that the other friend made it a bomb, so they had a sword fight and got knocked out by a giant ball from the sky.

Poverty

Children, shaved for lice, pooping in the streetOne of the toughest things for the kids to get used to is the poverty. Mumbai is an enormous city, and India is still a very poor country, and people from all over head to the big metropolis in the hopes of building a better life. Unfortunately for them, most end up in the sort of filth and squalor pictured here, where children with their heads shaved for lice squat in the street, surrounded by garbage, to relieve themselves. This was taken out our bus window one (typical) day heading home from school.

There are quite a lot of beggars throughout the city (duh), and they do seem to spot us fairly easily (duh) and head right over to us (duh). Breck has been having more of a difficult time dealing with them than Alea. There is one particular corner on the way home from school at which we get our windows knocked on quite often, and he dreads going to it. “I hope there are no beggars today” has become a refrain from him when we leave school. He asks us why they come asking for money, and I hope our pitiful explanations are adequate.

His class has been spending some time recently going into some of the roots of child labor and poverty, but this seems to upset him even more (there have been a couple of nights that he’s asked to sleep with us because of some of the things he has seen in class). It is such a pervasive fact of life here, wrapped up with so many ‘tinderbox’ issues ranging from alcohol to infanticide to abuse, that it is difficult to judge where to start and where to stop when trying to explain something that Alea and Breck see every day but have no context for understanding.

Breck has become more adept at using his ignoring skills when beggars approach him, but unfortunately this translates into him sometimes brusquely walking past other people who are genuinely interested in just saying ‘hi.’ It is interesting to remember that there are a lot of people in this country who have never spoken to a ‘white person,’ and many who have never seen on in real life. We don’t want him to ignore all Indians, but he is such a sensitive boy that it is a very fine line for us to walk in terms of helping him judge when to engage and when to ignore. This is such a ‘teachable moment’ for us while we live here; I just hope we are helping him understand things in a way that won’t haunt him for life.

(And just for some background information, we were told before coming - and have had it reinforced while here - that most of the street beggars are basically “pimped out” to local thugs who take the money they manage to earn. We’ve been encouraged to give food to them (but nothing that can be resold, because it will be and the money find its way into the boss’s pockets) and to contribute money to organizations that can better place it in the hands of those who are truly the needy.)

Onions in the ears and watermelons on the head

We are in a foreign land filled with mystery and wonder. There is much to learn here.

Take for example the fact that, according to our landlady, people who are working in the fields in the hot weather will put onions in their ears and wrap them into place, along with an extra piece on the top of the head, to help guard against heatstroke. Well who knew?? She went on to explain that, should this fail in preventing someone from fainting in the fields, the close-at-hand onions were ready to be used as a resuscitation device simply by squeezing a few drops into the passed out person’s nostrils. Double duty.

(Interestingly, when I asked my students about this, they had never heard of such a thing, but they did confirm that what Susan heard as “shock” for the name of the summer season was basically correct. It turns out that in Konkani, a language spoken in Goa, the phrase for hot weather is actually shaa ckho. Bypassing the obvious “shock and awe,” I call it “shock and achoo” myself).

But, on the bus ride in to school, I asked a teacher who is married to an Indian about this, and she said “Oh that’s nothing - the Parsis who moved to India from Iran used to wear hollowed-out watermelons on their heads to keep cool when working in the fields. Their community was quite famous for doing this; but of course their are no Parsis working as field hands any more, they own all the land now!”

When you think about people who have to wear onions wrapped in their turbans or watermelon rinds on their heads as the only way for them to survive in the heat as they go about their daily work, it makes our lives seem oh-so-easy!!

1 fish, 2 falcons, and 3 puppies

Who says Mumbai has no wildlife? In addition to the rats we’ve seen running along the sidewalks (for which there are official city jobs dedicated to killing them) and the raven/crows that eat everything the rats miss, Bombay is home to tons of different kinds of animals. Our experiences this weekend centered around 3 specific types.

On Saturday morning, I had volleyball practice and a school meeting, so Susan was at home with the kids and decided to go swimming. There really is no way to describe the fish experience any better than in Susan’s own (edited) words:

At 1:30 today, the kids and I went to the Kiara pool after notifying the guards in the morning that we would be using it. The pool was in miserable shape: debris floating on the top, leaves littering the bottom, and refuse I don’t care to identify swirling in the depths. The kids immediately jumped in and began to clear the pool. Leaves and sticks and bugs accumulated in a pile as they pulled things up from below. A scream shattered our industry as Breck dragged up a dead, decayed fish. He flung it to the side and scrambled out of the pool. I hauled Alea out and went over to the guard ( who had been enjoying watching our labor for the past ten minutes) and wanted to know how a dead fish could have landed in the pool. He raised his hand to the sky and said, “It’s the trees.”

Breck and the puppiesNot a great way to greet the weekend.

Sunday morning dawned as perhaps a better day, but then two mating falcons began screeching at each other in the tree branch right outside our window. Normally I like watching and listening to these large birds of prey, but not at 5:30 on a Sunday morning!

And finally, that afternoon, we were ‘invited’ to adopt some neighborhood puppies. We have a tiny apartment, and I don’t want a dog ripping our stuff apart, and Susan is very responsible about wanting to care for an animal, so the NO answer was easy to give. But Breck still had a ball rolling around with three of the 5 that are available, even though he got a little nip from them.

So there are our animal stories from this weekend - which was definitely a “2 rather than 3″ sort of weekend for us. Only 35 more days of school until summer!

A Perfectly Poetic Potty

Now, the biggest religion in India is Hinduism. And people who practice that faith are Hindus. And the ‘unifying’ language of India is Hindi. So there really is nothing wrong with a company adopting a prefix that refers back to the glory of the region, right?

Hindware toilet

Well, I’m sorry, but I do have to chuckle every time I walk into a bathroom and get ready to use a Hindware brand toilet, especially considering what part of the body usually rests on it!!

News, Indian style

I love the news that runs in the papers here. Not necessarily because it is fun to read or ‘uplifting’ in any way, but because the headlines and stories serve as a constant reminder that Toto is no longer in Kansas. Just as a taste, here are a couple of snippets from recent articles (besides the perennial favorite How to convert urine into drinking water):

These gangsters knew around six languages, and spoke in all of them to mislead the investigation. When thrashing did not work, police decided to play quizmasters for several hours…. “When we asked them about their identification, they gave us a new name. We gave them a good beating, but in vain,” said GM Patel, inspector of the Gujurat University police station.

  • Compensation for family planning hiked - I was just impressed to find out that India pays people to have vasectomies. Get your male tubes tied and you earn 1,500 rupees - just under $40.
  • And two that show the other side of ‘family planning’ here in India: After Sixth Girl, Mother Kills Commits Suicide in Rajkot and and Humiliated, Mother Kills Daughters - a sad commentary on life in India, where women are still held (murdeously) responsible for the gender of their children.
  • The previous articles (which are not uncommon in the news) make one wonder about Foetus Slips Out of Moving Train, Safe about a baby who was born into the toilet of a train. Keep in mind that Indian train toilets open directly onto the track, so the kid fell under the train and was left in the middle of the tracks! Of course, the more cynical might note that it was a daughter and wonder just how ‘accidental’ the incident was…
  • Third Sex Gets Official Status - but some aspects of Indian life are remarkably forward thinking, including the recognition of the ‘otherly gendered’ as the PC term has it.
  • And of course, when all else fails, you can always Ask the Sexpert at the Mumbai Times!